Detergent cosmetic compositions and use thereof for cleaning conditioning and styling keratinous fibers

ABSTRACT

The invention concerns novel washing compositions in particular for the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least a detergent surfactant, at least a polymer comprising at least a dialkyldiallylammonium monomer and at least a adhesive polymer having a glass transition temperature less than −20° C. Said compositions have enhanced hair styling effect.

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions withimproved properties intended simultaneously for cleansing, conditioningand styling keratin materials, especially the hair, and comprising, in acosmetically acceptable support, a washing base consisting ofsurfactants with detergent power, in which are also present particularcationic or amphoteric polymers in combination with adhesive polymerswith a glass transition temperature of less than −20° C. The inventionalso relates to the use of said compositions in the abovementionedcosmetic application.

It is common practice to use detergent hair compositions (or shampoos)based essentially on standard surfactants especially of anionic,nonionic and/or amphoteric type, but more particularly of anionic type,to cleanse and/or wash the hair. These compositions are applied to wethair and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the handsallows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types ofsoiling initially present on the hair.

These base compositions do indeed have good washing power, but theintrinsic cosmetic properties associated therewith are, however,relatively poor, especially due to the fact that the relativelyaggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can result in more orless pronounced damage to the hair fibers in the long run, which isassociated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids orproteins contained in or at the surface of these fibers.

Thus, to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergentcompositions, and more particularly of those intended to be applied tosensitized hair (i.e. hair that is in a damaged or embrittled condition,especially due to the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hairtreatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching operations), itis now common practice to introduce into these compositions additionalcosmetic agents known as conditioners, which are mainly intended torepair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by thevarious treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibers are more orless repeatedly subjected. These conditioners can, of course, alsoimprove the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos are cationicpolymers, which give washed, dry or wet hair markedly increased ease ofdisentangling, softness and smoothness when compared with that which maybe obtained with the corresponding conditioner-free cleansingcompositions.

Moreover it has been sought for some time to obtain conditioningshampoos that are capable of giving washed hair not only the cosmeticproperties mentioned above, but also, to a greater or lesser degree,styling, volume, shaping and hold properties. The latter washingshampoos with improved general cosmetic properties are often referred tofor simplicity as “styling shampoos”, and this term will be adopted inthe description hereinbelow.

However, despite the progress recently made in the field of stylingshampoos, these products do not truly give total satisfaction, and assuch there is currently still a strong need to provide novel productsthat show better performance properties as regards one or more of thecosmetic properties mentioned above.

The present invention is directed toward satisfying such a need.

Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, theApplicant has now found, entirely surprisingly and unexpectedly, that bycombining particular cationic or amphoteric polymers, as defined below,with certain polymers with a glass transition temperature of less than−20° C. and having a particular adhesive power, in detergentcompositions, it is possible to substantially and significantly improvethe cosmetic properties associated with these compositions, while at thesame time conserving their good intrinsic washing power.

These compositions especially make it possible to obtain good hold and acertain degree of volume for the hair, i.e. a styling effect. It ismoreover found that the keratin fibers are hardened and reinforced.

Without wishing to limit the present invention to any theory, it wouldappear that, between the cationic or amphoteric polymers, the adhesivepolymers in accordance with the invention and the hair, there areparticular interactions and/or affinities that promote a regular,sizable and long-lasting deposition of said adhesive polymers at thesurface of said hair, this qualitative and quantitative depositionprobably being one of the causes of the improvement observed as regardsthe final cosmetic properties, in particular the ease of styling, thehold, the liveliness and the volume of the treated hair. In any case,the cosmetic properties associated with the detergent compositionscontaining the combination of agents [cationic or amphoteric polymercomprising at least one diallyldialkylammonium monomer/adhesive polymer]in accordance with the invention are markedly better than those that maybe obtained by using the adhesive polymer and a different cationicpolymer.

All these discoveries form the basis of the present invention.

Thus, according to the invention, novel compositions for washing keratinmaterials, in particular the hair, are now proposed, these compositionscomprising, in cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least oneadhesive polymer with a glass transition temperature of less than −20°C., at least one cationic or amphoteric polymer comprising at least onediallyldialkylammonium monomer, and at least one detergent surfactant.

A subject of the invention is also the use of a cationic or amphotericpolymer comprising at least one diallyldialkylammonium monomer toimprove the styling effect of a composition containing at least oneadhesive polymer.

A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the abovecompositions for cleansing, conditioning, caring for and styling keratinmaterials, especially the hair and the eyelashes.

Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process fortreating keratin materials, especially keratin fibers and moreparticularly the hair and the eyelashes, using the composition accordingto the invention.

A subject of the invention is also the use of he composition accordingto the invention as a shampoo.

However, other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the inventionwill emerge even more clearly on reading the description that follows,and also the concrete, but in no way limiting, examples intended toillustrate it.

The term “adhesive polymer” more particularly denotes a polymer with amaximum tensile force Fmax of greater than 2 newtons, preferably between5 and 100 N and more particularly between 7 and 35 newtons.

According to the present invention, the term “maximum peel force Fmax”means the maximum tensile force, measured using an extensometer (LloydL5K from Lloyd Instrument) required to detach the surfaces of 95 mm² oftwo rigid, inert, nonabsorbent supports (A) and (B) respectively, placedfacing each other; said surfaces being precoated with a formulationconsisting of the adhesive polymer(s) in water, at a rate of 53/cμg/mm², dried for 48 hours at 22° C., under a relative humidity of 55%,and then subjected for 20 seconds to a compression of 3 newtons andfinally subjected for 30 seconds to a tension at a speed of 20mm/minute, c being the solids concentration in the formulationconsisting of the adhesive polymer(s) in water, expressed as grams pergram of composition.

Circular supports (A) and (B) consisting of polyethylene, polypropylene,metal alloy and, preferably, glass, are preferably used.

The glass transition temperature is measured by differential thermalanalysis.

To measure the glass transition temperature, a film of the test polymerabout 150 microns thick is made by depositing an aqueous solution ordispersion of the polymer into a circular Teflon mold 40 mm in diameterand leaving the deposit to dry. The film is dried in an oven at atemperature of about 23° C. under a relative humidity of 45%, until theweight no longer changes. 5 to 15 mg of the film are taken, and placedin a crucible, which is then introduced into the analyzer. The thermalanalyzer is a DSC-2920 model from TA-Instrument. The initial and finaltemperatures are chosen so as to flank the desired glass transitiontemperature, with a temperature sweep speed of 10° C./minute.

This analysis is performed according to ASTM standard D 3418-97 with theexception of the above modifications.

The adhesive polymers according to the invention preferably have a glasstransition temperature of between −100° C. and −20° C. and moreparticularly between −7020 C. and −25° C.

Among the adhesive polymers of the invention that may particularly bementioned are acrylic acid copolymers, especially those known asCARBOTAC XPD-1811 sold by the company Noveon (Tg of about −43° C. andmaximum peel force F_(max) equal to about 11.2 newtons) and CarbotacXPD-1814 (Tg=−30° C.).

The comonomers are especially C₁-C₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates, acrylamide,methacrylamide and acrylonitrile.

Examples of copolymers that may be used include copolymers of acrylicacid, of acrylamide, of ethyl acrylate and of acrylonitrile, such as theproducts known as Hystretch V29 (Tg=−29° C.), Hystretch V43 (Tg=−43° C.)and Hystretch V60 (Tg=−60° C.).

The polymers are especially in the form of a dispersion or emulsion inwater. The mean size of the polymer particles in the dispersion isgenerally between 5 and 500 nm and preferably between 15 and 250 nm.

The adhesive polymers are present in the compositions of the inventionat a concentration of between 0.05% and 20% by weight, preferablybetween 0.1% and 10% and more particularly between 0.5% and 5% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

The detergent surfactant(s) may be chosen, without preference, alone oras mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic andcationic surfactants.

Thus, according to the invention, the detergent surfactants mayrepresent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 25% by weightand even more preferably from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the totalweight of the final composition.

The surfactants that are suitable for use in the present invention areespecially the following:

(i) Anionic Surfactant(s)

In the context of the present invention, their nature is not a trulycritical feature.

Thus, as examples of anionic surfactants that can be used, alone or asmixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be madein particular (nonlimiting list) of salts (in particular alkaline salts,especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcoholsalts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates,alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates,alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates,paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates,alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-cyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all ofthese various compounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbonatoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzylgroup. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention mayalso be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic,palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oilacid; acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbonatoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such asalkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well aspolyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particularthose containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixturesthereof.

The anionic surfactants of the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether acidor salt type are in particular those corresponding to formula (1) below:R₁—(OC₂H₄)_(n)—OCH₂COOA   (1)in which:

-   -   R₁ denotes an alkyl, alkylamido or alkaryl group and n is an        integer or fractional number (mean value) that can range from 2        to 24 and preferably from 3 to 10, the alkyl radical containing        between 6 and 20 carbon atoms approximately, and aryl preferably        denoting phenyl.

A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine ortriethanolamine residue. Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) and inparticular mixtures in which the groups R₁ are different may also beused.

Compounds of formula (1) are sold, for example, by the company Chem Yunder the names Akypos (NP 40, NP 70, OP 40, OP 80, RLM 25, RLM 38, RLMQ38 NV, RLM 45, RLM 45 NV, RLM 100, RLM 100 NV, RO 20, RO 90, RCS 60, RS60, RS 100, RO 50) or by the company Sandoz under the name Sandopan (DTCAcid, DTC).

(ii) Nonionic Surfactant(s)

The nonionic surfactants are, themselves also, compounds that are wellknown per se (see in particular in this respect “Handbook ofSurfactants” by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow andLondon), 1991, pp. 116-178) and, in the context of the presentinvention, their nature is not a critical feature. Thus, they can bechosen in particular from (nonlimiting list) polyethoxylated,polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, α-diolsor alcohols having a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbonatoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propyleneoxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and for the number ofglycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also bemade of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensatesof ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol ofethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; oxyethylenated fattyacid esters of sorbitan having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fattyacid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol,alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as(C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. Itwill be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionicsurfactants that are particularly suitable for use in the context of thepresent invention.

(iii) Amphoteric or Zwitterionic Surfactant(s)

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, whose nature is not acritical feature in the context of the present invention, can be, inparticular (nonlimiting list), aliphatic secondary or tertiary aminederivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chaincontaining 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least onewater-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate,sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of(C₈-C₂₀)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines,(C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₁-C₆)alkylbetaines or (C₈-C₂₀)alkylamido(C₁-C₆)alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products soldunder the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and2,781,354, and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982,under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, andhaving the respective structures:R₂—CONHCH₂CH₂—N⁺(R₃)(R₄)(CH₂COO⁻)   (2)in which: R₂ denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R₂—COOHpresent in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,R₃ denotes a β-hydroxyethyl group and R₄ denotes a carboxymethyl group;andR₂′—CONHCH₂CH₂—N(B)(C)   (3)in which:

-   -   B represents —CH₂CH₂OX′, C represents —(CH₂)_(z)—Y′,    -   with z=1 or 2,    -   X′ denotes the —CH₂CH₂—COOH group or a hydrogen atom,    -   Y′ denotes —COOH or the —CH₂—CHOH—SO₃H radical,    -   R₂′ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R₉—COOH present in        coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in        particular a C₇, C₉, C₁₁, or C₁₃ alkyl radical, a C₁₇ alkyl        radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C₁₇ radical.

An example that may be mentioned is cocoamphocarboxyglycinate sold underthe trade name Miranol C2M concentrate by the company Miranol.

(iv) Cationic Surfactants

Among the cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular are(nonlimiting list): optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary ortertiary fatty amine salts; quaternary ammonium salts such astetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium,trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridiniumchlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides ofcationic nature.

It will be noted that the cationic surfactants, the use of which is notexcluded, do not constitute preferred surfactants for use in the presentinvention.

The polymers comprising at least one dialkyldiallylammonium monomer areespecially homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as chain constituents,at least one unit corresponding to the formula (4a) or (4b):

in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R₁₂denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently ofeach other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, ahydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5carbon atoms, or a lower (C₁-C₄)amidoalkyl group, or alternatively R₁₀and R₁₁ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they areattached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y⁻ is ananion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate,bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are describedespecially in French patent 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition2 190 406.

R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkylgroup containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularlyof the dimethyldiallylammonium salts (especially the chloride) soldunder the name “Merquat® 100” by the company Nalco (and the homologuesthereof of low molecular mass). It is also possible to use thecopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (especially the chloride)and of acrylamide sold under the names Merquat® 100, and Merquat® 550 bythe company Nalco, and the copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts(especially the chloride) and of acrylic acid sold under the namesMerquatφ 280 and Merquat® 295 by the company Nalco.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may contain oneor more cationic or amphoteric polymers as described above, in an amountranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 5% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cationic polymer may be used in a weight ratio with the adhesivepolymer of between 100 and 0.0005, preferably between 20 and 0.01 andeven more particularly between 1 and 0.05.

According to one preferred mode of the invention, the compositions mayalso comprise at least one silicone.

Among the silicones that may be used in the composition of the presentinvention, mention may be made especially of volatile or nonvolatile,cyclic or acyclic, branched or unbranched, organomodified ornon-organomodified silicones, as described below.

The silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may besoluble or insoluble in the composition and in particular may bepolyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of theinvention; they may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

According to the invention the silicones may all be used in unmodifiedform or in the form of solutions, dispersions, emulsions, nanoemulsionsor microemulsions.

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's“Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968) Academic Press. They canbe volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen fromthose having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and evenmore particularly from:

-   -   (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to        5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,        octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name        “Volatile Silicone 7207” by Union Carbide or “Silbione 70045 V        2” by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name        “Volatile Silicone 7158” by Union Carbide, and “Silbione 70045 V        5” by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of thedimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as “Silicone Volatile FZ3109” sold by the company Union Carbide, having the chemical structure:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones withorganosilicon compounds, such as the mixture ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol(50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andoxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; (ii)linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having aviscosity of less than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25° C. An example isdecamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name “SH 200” bythe company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category arealso described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries,Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers “Volatile Silicone Fluids forCosmetics”.

Nonvolatile silicones, and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes,polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins,polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixturesthereof, are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes,among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanescontaining trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of from 5×10⁻⁶to 2.5 m²/s at 25° C. and preferably 1×10⁻⁵ to 1 m²/s. The viscosity ofthe silicones is, for example, measured at 25° C. according to ASTMstandard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimitingmanner, of the following commercial products:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®        oils sold by Rhodia such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500        000;    -   the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;    -   the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such        as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;    -   the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the        SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containingdimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name)such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia Chimie.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of theproducts sold under the names “Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801” by the companyGoldschmidt, which are poly(C₁-C₂₀)alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/orbranched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes orpolydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, with a viscosity of from 1×10⁻⁵ to 5×10⁻²m²/s at 25° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way ofexample, of the products sold under the following names:

-   -   the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;    -   the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;    -   the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;    -   the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product        PK20;    -   the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the        products PN1000 and PH1000;    -   certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF        1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are,in particular, polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-averagemolecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as amixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatilesilicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane(PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride,pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products:

-   -   polydimethylsiloxane,    -   polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,    -   polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane,    -   polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane,    -   polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane.

Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with theinvention are mixtures such as:

-   -   mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the        chain end (referred to as dimethiconol according to the        nomenclature in the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic        polydimethylsiloxane (referred to as cyclomethicone according to        the nomenclature in the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2        1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;    -   mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic        silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the        company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum        corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average        molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202        Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;    -   mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more        particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product        SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236        is a mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above, having a viscosity        of 20 m²/s, and an SF 96 oil, with a viscosity of 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s.        This product preferably contains 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96        oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with theinvention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the followingunits:

-   -   R₂SiO_(2/2), R₃SiO_(1/2), RSiO_(3/2) and SiO_(4/2) in which R        represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 16 carbon        atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those        particularly preferred are the ones in which R denotes a C₁-C₄        lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl        radical.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under thename “Dow Corning 593” or those sold under the names “Silicone Fluid SS4230 and SS 4267” by the company General Electric, which are siliconesof dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type resinssold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 bythe company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with theinvention are silicones as defined above and containing in theirstructure one or more organofunctional groups attached via ahydrocarbon-based group.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made ofpolyorganosiloxanes comprising:

-   -   polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally        comprising C₆-C₂₄ alkyl groups, such as the products known as        dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the        name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711        by the company Union Carbide, and the (C₁₂)alkylmethicone        copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;    -   substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products        sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the        company Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220        and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The        substituted amine groups are, in particular, C₁-C₄ aminoalkyl        groups;    -   thiol groups such as the products sold under the names “GP 72 A”        and “GP 71” from Genesee;    -   alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name        “Silicone Copolymer F-755” by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428,        2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;    -   hydroxylated groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a        hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application        FR-A-85 16334;    -   acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the        polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;    -   anionic groups of carboxylic type, such as, for example, in the        products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso        Corporation, or of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present        in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu;        2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the        products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names “Abil®        S201” and “Abil® S255”;    -   hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes        described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made,        for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow        Corning.

The silicones as described above may be used alone or as a mixture, inan amount of between 0.01% and 20% by weight and preferably between 0.1%and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or moreplant oils such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil,jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, sesame seed oil, groundnutoil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, passionflower oil,coconut oil, maize oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricotkernel oil or beauty-leaf oil, and mixtures thereof.

The term “cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium” means a medium that iscompatible with keratin materials especially such as the skin, theeyelashes and the hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium may consist solely of water or of amixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a C₁-C₄lower alcohol, for instance ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol orn-butanol; alkylene glycols, for instance propylene glycol, polyolethers; C₅-C₁₀ alkanes; acetone, methyl ethyl ketone; C₁-C₄ alkylacetates, for instance methyl acetate, ethyl acetate or butyl acetate;dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 50% to 95% by weight of waterrelative to the total weight of the composition.

The washing compositions according to the invention have a final pHgenerally of between 3 and 10. This pH is preferably between 5 and 8.The pH may be adjusted to the desired value in a conventional manner byadding a base (organic or mineral base) to the composition, for exampleaqueous ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, forinstance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding anacid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as, for example, citric acid.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may contain, inaddition to the combination defined above, viscosity regulators such aselectrolytes, or thickeners (associative or nonassociative thickeners).Mention may be made in particular of sodium chloride, sodiumxylenesulfonate, scleroglucans, xanthan gums, fatty acid alkanolamides,alkyl ether carboxylic acid alkanolamides optionally oxyethylenated withup to 5 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name“Aminol A15” by the company Chem Y, crosslinked polyacrylic acids andcrosslinked acrylic acid/C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymers. Theseviscosity regulators are used in the compositions according to theinvention in proportions that may be up to 10% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also preferablycontain up to 5% of nacreous agents or opacifiers that are well known inthe prior art, such as, for example, C16 higher fatty alcohols,fatty-chain acyl derivatives such as ethylene glycol or polyethyleneglycol monostearate or distearate, and (C10-C30) fatty-chain ethers suchas, for example, distearyl ether or 1-(hexadecyloxy)-2-octadecanol.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also optionallycontain at least one additive chosen from foam synergists such asC₁₀-C₁₈ 1,2-alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides derived frommonoethanolamine or diethanolamine, silicone-based or non-silicone-basedsunscreens, cationic polymers other than those of the invention, anionicor nonionic or amphoteric polymers other than those of the invention,proteins, protein hydrolyzates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acidscontaining linear or branched C₁₂-C₄₀ chains, such as18-methyleicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, provitamins such aspanthenol, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additiveconventionally used in cosmetics that does not affect the properties ofthe composition according to the invention.

The washing compositions according to the invention may obviously alsocontain any common adjuvant encountered in the field of shampoos, forinstance fragrances, preserving agents, sequestering agents, softeners,dyes, moisturizers, antidandruff agents or antiseborrheic agents, andthe like.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthis or these optional additional compound(s) and/or the amounts thereofsuch that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with thecombination in accordance with the invention are not, or are notsubstantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The compositions may be in the form of more or less thickened liquids,creams or gels, and they are mainly suitable for washing, caring forand/or styling the hair. They may also be in the form of rinse-outlotions.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treatingkeratin materials, which consists in applying an effective amount of acomposition as described above to the keratin materials, and rinsing itout after an optional leave-in time.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositionmay be used as a shampoo.

When the compositions in accordance with the invention are used asstandard shampoos, they are simply applied to wet hair and the lathergenerated by massaging or rubbing with the hands is then removed, afteran optional leave-in time, by rinsing with water, the operation possiblybeing repeated one or more times.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the inventionwill now be given.

EXAMPLE 1

A shampoo composition in accordance with the invention was prepared:Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12/C14) containing 14.7 g AM 2.2 molof ethylene oxide, at a concentration of 26% AM (AM = active material)Cocoylbetaine at a concentration of 30% AM 6 g AM Copolymer ofdimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of 0.4 g AM acrylamide as anaqueous solution at a concentration of 8% AM (Merquat ® 550 from Nalco)pH agent qs pH 7 Acrylic copolymer as an aqueous emulsion at a 5.5 gconcentration of 55% Carbotac ® XPD-1811 from Noveon Water qs 100 g

Hair treated with this shampoo shows good styling and volumizingproperties.

1-17. (canceled)
 18. A composition for treating keratin materialscomprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least oneadhesive polymer with a glass transition temperature of less than −20°C., at least one polymer chosen from cationic and amphoteric polymerscomprising at least one cationic dialkyldiallylammonium monomer, and atleast one detergent surfactant.
 19. The composition of claim 18, whereinthe at least one detergent surfactant is chosen from anionic,amphoteric, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.20. The composition of claim 18, wherein said at least one detergentsurfactant is present in an amount ranging from 4% to 50% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 21. The composition ofclaim 20, wherein said at least one detergent surfactant is present inan amount ranging from 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition.
 22. The composition of claim 18, wherein the atleast one adhesive polymer has a glass transition temperature rangingfrom −100° C. to −20° C.
 23. The composition of claim 18, wherein the atleast one adhesive polymer has a maximum tensile force Fmax of greaterthan 2 N.
 24. The composition of claim 23, wherein the at least oneadhesive polymer has a maximum tensile force Fmax ranging from 5 N to100 N.
 25. The composition of claim 18, wherein the at least oneadhesive polymer is an acrylic acid copolymer.
 26. The composition ofclaim 25, wherein the at least one adhesive polymer is a copolymer ofacrylic acid, of acrylamide, of ethyl acrylate and of acrylonitrile. 27.The composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one adhesive polymeris present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.
 28. The composition of claim 27,wherein the at least one adhesive polymer is present in an amountranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 29. The composition of claim 28, wherein the at least oneadhesive polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 5% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 30. Thecomposition of claim 18, wherein said at least one polymer comprising atleast one cationic dialkyldiallylammonium monomer is chosen fromhomopolymers and copolymers comprising, as chain constituents, at leastone unit corresponding to formula (4a) or (4b):

wherein k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R₁₂denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R₁₀ and R₁₁, independently ofeach other, are chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 8 carbonatoms, hydroxyalkyl groups, or lower (C₁-C₄) amidoalkyl groups, oralternatively R₁₀ and R₁₁ may form, together with the nitrogen atom towhich they are attached, heterocyclic groups; Y⁻ is an anion chosen frombromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate,bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate.
 31. The composition of claim 30,wherein in the definition of R₁₀ and R₁₁, the hydroxyalkyl groupscomprise from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
 32. The composition of claim 30,wherein the heterocyclic groups are chosen from piperidyl andmorpholinyl groups.
 33. The composition of claim 30, wherein said atleast one polymer comprising at least one cationicdialkyldiallylammonium monomer is chosen from copolymers of adimethyldiallylammonium salt and of acrylamide, copolymers ofdimethyldiallylammonium salts and of acrylic acid and homopolymers ofdimethyldiallylammonium salts.
 34. The composition of claim 18, whereinsaid at least one polymer comprising at least one cationicdialkyldiallylammonium monomer is present in an amount ranging from0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.35. The composition of claim 18, wherein the composition furthercomprises a silicone.
 36. The composition of claim 35, wherein thesilicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 37. The composition ofclaim 36, wherein the silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 38. Thecomposition of claim 18, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 3to
 10. 39. A method for treating keratin materials, comprising applyingto said keratin materials a composition comprising, in a cosmeticallyacceptable aqueous medium, at least one adhesive polymer with a glasstransition temperature of less than −20° C., at least one polymer chosenfrom cationic and amphoteric polymers comprising at least one cationicdialkyldiallylammonium monomer, and at least one detergent surfactant.40. The method of claim 39, wherein treating keratin materials comprisescleansing, caring for, conditioning or styling the keratin materials.41. The method of claim 39, wherein the method of treating keratinmaterials simultaneously cleans, conditions and styles the keratinmaterials.
 42. A method for providing an improved styling effect tokeratin materials, comprising applying to keratin materials acomposition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, atleast one adhesive polymer with a glass transition temperature of lessthan −20° C., at least one polymer chosen from cationic and amphotericpolymers comprising at least one cationic dialkyldiallylammoniummonomer, and at least one detergent surfactant.